La Tercera Semana: I Smell Dead People... & a Guinea Pig!

Hola!  As you might be able to tell from the title, this post is not for the faint of heart.  Be forewarned!  I am going to dig in deep to the senses I have been experiencing this week: the sights, sounds, tastes, and - my personal favorite this week - the smells!  My nose has been having a lot of fun this week, to say the least.  I'll save the juicy stuff for later...

Following a quick meeting to start the week off on Sunday, I branched off on my own to take a stroll along the Pacific coastline in Miraflores AKA my favorite district in Lima thus far.  I am a sucker for flowers and, I assure you, there are flowers everywhere you look in Miraflores.  While taking a photo of a vibrant, orange hibiscus flower, I was lucky enough to spot my first Peruvian hummingbird.  An Amazilia Hummingbird took a quick sip of hibiscus nectar before (very, very quickly) fluttering away; I was unable to snap a photo, because my eyes are always eager to see birds with my own four eyes rather than through the camera lens.  I need to train myself better for you all, huh? :)  After waiting around for another glimpse, I gave up, and found another surprise - two tropical bird of paradise flowers in front of the Iglesia Virgen de Fátima!  These were the first real pair for my eyes.  So much more beautiful than their plastic mimics, obviously! 
After getting out my oohs & aahs, I continued to a nearby park and photographed another first: a Red Crested Cardinal!  Not a true cardinal, but a tanager, and a tropical beauty not native to Lima or Peru.  A rather handsome fella.  I am such a lucky girl!
In checking out a few shops on this day, and I happened to wander in to a chocolate museum (imagine that?)... I'm officially in love with chocolate tea.  Yum!  Made with natural cocoa beans from the Amazon, very light and not too sweet.  I have to go back ASAP and I will definitely be bringing some of this treasure back home with me!  I filled my brain with new information, sights, and experiences on Sunday, from exchanging money on the streets (FYI: those blue-vested men have the best, most honest exchange rate) to navigating the busy streets on my own without getting lost (OK - I may have looked at my map a couple times, but still - doing good without my compass).  Every day, I am a little more oriented.

There is SO much color (& calor AKA heat) here!  This Tuesday, the Peru group grabbed seats on the top of a double-decker bus for a tour from Miraflores to Plaza de Armas and the Museo de Convento de San Francisco de Asis in the central portion of Lima.  I smelled "green" and clean air on the top of the bus, a nice switch from the gas fumes that usually fill my nostrils whilst walking around.  The streets of Lima are filled with people, vibrant colors, and gorgeous architecture.  You rarely see a completely white building here, and I love that.  I found myself hanging outside of the bus for most of the tour, my camera around my neck and greased with sunscreen!  Inside the Church of San Francisco - now solely a museum - we had the opportunity to sneak a peak at the catacombs!  This venture was by far my favorite aspect.  An ancient burial place, the catacombs wreaked of ancient earth and death... but, at the same time, they were so interestingly beautiful.  Holding the remains of several thousand (estimated 25,000 - 70,000) bodies, the group was walking on top of tombs and viewing different artworks the entire time we were in the church.  In the catacombs, human skulls and femurs are arranged in a circular pattern, some adorning the walls; truly morbid, yet amazing works of art.  I wouldn't want to be the guy who decided to move the bones around, but I sure loved looking at it.  A different kind of beauty... and smell.  All of the architecture was incredible, clearly adopted from European and some Muslim influence many, many moons ago.  I found myself day-dreaming often; wondering what it would be like to walk the catacombs with the mere light of a candle or what it would be like to view these magnificent, monstrous buildings before they were dwarfed by skyscrapers and hidden behind the jungle of telephone wires.  I think I was born in the wrong era... if only!  One downside: no pictures inside of the church!  So that means there are no skull pictures… Bummer, right? :)

Over three weeks have passed in my adventure to Peru, and I can hardly believe that time is passing so quickly.  On Friday my Peruvian mom dished up some homemade pasta – yes, pasta – for lunch.  Again, yum!  The dish is a favorite of my host sister’s, and I could tell/taste why; it was so delicious and my favorite meal here so far!  Much like lasagna (it smelled much like it, anyway), but without the layers of tomato sauce and with gobs more cheese.  I can handle that, and was thrilled to have an Italian inspired dish after finding out that my family was going out for Italian food in celebration of my grandmother's birthday this week.  Jealous!  But, overall, it was wonderful to hear their voices yesterday.  I also tried a different type of chicken soup this week (chicken is super popular here) - feet and all included.  Thankfully, I didn’t have a chicken foot in my bowl, but one of the cousins in my host family did.  She started gnawing and it flew right out of her hand, and onto the floor!  We got a pretty good chuckle out of that one… :)  Another plate, aji de gallina is a close second favorite for me.  Aji de gallina (chicken and rice covered in a yellow chili sauce) is a Peruvian staple, and my host mom makes it often; so it's a really good thing that I like it so much, huh?  We also eat a lot of arroz con pollo (chicken and rice), too, which is basically the same thing to me.  I wouldn't dare tell a Peruvian that, though. ;)  

Here it is (arroz con pollo)... with fresh pineapple juice!  Another yum!  My Peruvian mom makes fresh juice almost every day.

Saturday was the most eventful day of the week.  I joined my Peruvian mother and sisters in an excursion to the cemetery, to visit the girls' father, Teodoro.  He passed away nearly 15 years ago from illness.  I won't give away the age of my host mom, but she is closer to being my grandmother than my mother, so his passing was not unusual for his age.  He lived a long, happy life - they told me - and my host mom calls him "Te adoro," which means I adore you... So sweet!  Here in Peru, funerals are a celebration of life, but visiting the cemetery here is much like it is in the United States.  One difference, though: people are buried on top of each other.  At this cemetery, it was 5 layers for each plot.  Thus, there are strangers buried within the same plot of their father.  Interesting!  To start, the girls bought gorgeous flowers upon walking in, arranged them at the grave site, and said a prayer so perfectly harmonized.  I wanted to experience this, as my host mother often does this alone.  I was happy to have sparked an interest in the sisters to join us, and they wanted me to take their pictures even, which I was more than happy to do for them.  Earlier in the day, I could feel the pain and sadness that they shared, and their strong love for their father brought tears to my eyes.  I am grateful that they shared this special moment with me.  Hey, Papa, I love you! 

For lunch, we stopped at La Olla Arequipeña and I tried more traditional Peruvian dishes!  For starters, I tasted rocoto relleno: a capsicum pepper with beef, onions, boiled egg, and cheese stuffed inside.  Gorgeous and super pica = hot!  My host mom and I ordered chancho a la caya, which is a Chinese style pork dish that is normally roasted and fried to crisp the skin.  Peruvian mom = not impressed.  I thought it was OK, but the star of the show at lunch today was cuy.  Believe it or not, I ate a little bit of guinea pig today, because that is what cuy is!  I won't go into the gritty details of how they do it, but one of my host sisters loves cuy so much and dove right in, head first to be honest.  She tore the head right off and began gnawing away, starting with the ears!  They say that the ears are the tastiest part of any animal... well, I'd rather scratch them!  I was kind of scared to try cuy before I came to Peru, but it wasn't bad at all.  Cuy was actually my favorite of the dishes that I tried today, and I got to eat hominy today, too.  A little slice of normal for me. :)  We topped dinner off with a bite of helados - ice cream - from the D'Onofrio man outside the restaurant.  These guys/gals that sell this brand of ice cream never cease to crack me up.  First of all, they are everywhere, and they have a really loud horn.  They ride and/or walk the streets, forever tooting their horn, and this is the sign of the ice cream man!  Sure enough, people come crawling out of their businesses and apartments.  I wish I could describe the horn better, but from 18 floors up it sounded like a dying Howler Monkey.  Thus, for my first two days in Peru, I was certain that there were monkeys in Lima.  Sadly, there are not, but there is a ton of ice cream!  Beware of the pictures that follow... it's not a booger face, it's guinea pig meat...

The third week has treated me well!  I am certain that there is much more beauty and fun in store to overstimulate my senses here in Peru.  As always, I am looking forward to the next day, but I am doing my best to be fully present in the moment.  Three more months are ahead of me.  I have been enjoying a lot of excursions alone and with my host family alike; I am used to this type of thing with the jobs that I have had in the past and the experience I have with being the independent, only child.  I have also enjoyed times with the girls here.  Last weekend, while in the park passing by a small concert with a few others from the group, two old men grabbed our hands and danced around with us.  I smiled and laughed more in this moment than in any other so far!  My goal now is to find a Peruvian guide/friend, for I am eager to see more and, even in a house full of Peruvians, it gets lonely sometimes.  As my uncle would say, everyone needs and deserves alone time, each and every day.  I surely have been basking in my solitude, but I do miss the company (and proximity) of my loved ones!  Nonetheless, I have been so adventurous in Peru.  I want to share (part of) a piece that reminds me to keeping going wherever my heart desires, and I hope that it encourages you, too, if you ever feel alone and it holds you back from doing what you want to do.  It also reminds me to look at others in this way.  Again, from that wonderful little book of dreams…

You Have Everything You Need to Take You Where You Want to Go by Douglas Pagels

You have abilities and talents and attributes that belong to you alone, and you have what it takes to make your path of success… lead to happiness.

You have qualities that get better every day!

You have courage and strength to see things through.

You have smiles that will serve as your guides.

You have gifts that have never even been opened and personal journeys waiting to be explored.

And you need to remember: if you have plans you want to act on and dreams you’ve always wanted to come true…

You have what it takes, because…

You have you.

I trust that the weekend treated you well, and I wish you a great coming week.  Chow for now!  - A

La Segunda Semana: The Week of Challenges

"Ashley - You are so smart . . . Always use that to your advantage.  Never forget that you are beautiful.  I love you dearly.  Always remember that.  Stay strong. - J.P."

These words can be found hidden inside the cover of a wonderful book that was gifted to me by a family friend upon my high school graduation, titled Keep Believing: in Yourself and Your Dreams.  The inspiring pages that follow have been heavily thumbed through this past week and even today.  In coming to Peru, I knew that there would be obstacles along the way.  Life is full of challenges, and studying abroad in a beautiful place does not exempt me from the "trials and tribulations," as my Papa would call them.  Of course, there is much good that has come with the bad, and I am always able to find a bright side when life throws me a steady curve ball or two.  A few tears have fallen, but I have smiled far more than I have frowned.  I am a short hair past two weeks now, and less than 100 days remain in my stay in Peru.  Time is flying, as it always seems to; I am staying very busy.   Honing in on my responsibilities and interests, I am becoming a better Ashley each and every day.  But, I must be honest, this country has challenged me a bit.  Maybe more than a bit...

The first seven days, I failed to have a door that shut completely.  It took a few discussions - completely in Spanish, of course - to finally come to a solid compromise with my host mother that it was necessary for me to have a door that shut/locked.  The second week took off on a running start with my first full, good night of rest and much appreciated privacy, free of bright morning light, constant noise, and the paranoia of shower peepers.  I was very patient, yet persistent, and this eventually paid off in my favor.

Speaking of patience...  Family and friends, you are probably aware that patience is not my strong suite - my jar is half full and tends to drain rather quickly.  It takes a lot to burn my fuse - but, when it's gone - watch out!  Well, fear no more.  Patience is a must in Peru!  It took me over a week to be on time to any place that I was going.  With hectic traffic, extra long lights, and the sense of time (or lack thereof) of Peruvians, I found myself half running to class and anywhere else I planned on being.  My family likes to feed me minutes before I have to be somewhere, usually to class.  It takes me 20-25 minutes to get to school on foot, so I have to leave 30 minutes prior to be safe. (I have stop to take pictures here and there, too, of course.) A whopping three hours long, my classes require my full attention and a small dose of patience when we manage to only get a 5-10 minute break... and often more than halfway through the class.  At restaurants, you have to beg the waiter to get your check (la cuenta vs. el cuento is good to know, too) and asking for it to be separated adds another 20-30 minutes to your wait, especially when with a group.  On outings with my Peruvian family I have also discovered that what they consider to be a "short walk" is, in reality, an all day affair.  & Two weeks in, I have yet to obtain a key to the apartment.  This, too, requires patience and a strong finger to hit the doorbell 20+ times some afternoons.  Peruvians often take midday naps or siestas as I like to call them.  Hey, I like to nap, too.  They are easy-going people, and I can appreciate that.  I like to stop and smell the roses, too.  And, patience is a virtue.  I may get frustrated here and there, but it's good for me.  Every strain in my brow adds a grain of patience to my jar, right?  I'd sure like to think so.  I've been taking a lot of deep breaths to get through the day.

Only a couple of days have been both physically and mentally draining for me to stay positive.  Lima is one of the most polluted cities in Latin America... and I will leave it at that.  The contamination is a big mental obstacle for me every day.  I discovered that I have nine free days at the end of this trip, instead of heading home after finals as I had planned on in making my initial reservations.  For two, a rather interesting excursion to a not-so-nice beach started off my week.  Not what I was promised or expecting it to be, but I will definitely take a crack at the beach again regardless.  Punta Hermosa, here I come!  Today also challenged me, but I have yet again risen above the issue, handling it with grace and a positive attitude in the end.  I am sure that my host family was surprised to watch me transform into a rather stern and frustrated businesswoman, spending more than an hour on the phone making calls back and forth to the states, but I thankfully could handle the matter in English for once and we came to a resolution.  I have forgiven and I have forgotten.  I am so incredibly thankful for Stephen - my guardian and professor here from the states - he and his wife are gems.  My heart is heavy.  Boy, do I miss my family and friends.  I miss my Papa so very, very much.  Mom and I often speak daily, but I could definitely use a genuine hug from her, too.  Don't even get me started on the boyfriend... but, he will be here the end of March! :)  To combat my homesickness, I have decorated a wall in my room with "my people" and nature photos I have taken.  This definitely helps me to cope in seeing your beautiful, smiling faces every day and reading the words you sent along with me.  Above all, I always know that I am loved.

Don't worry, I am still fully enjoying Lima.  I am so pleased to have shared many moments of pure emotion with my host family - since the first day, really - and even more so in the second week.  Genuine smiles, laughs, hugs...  This week my Peruvian mom forgot to buy napkins at the store, and came to the dinner table with a roll of toilet paper.  She could hardly keep a straight face as she passed out three sheets to each of us.  Finally, she broke down - letting out a big, belly laugh - telling us that we had to wipe our faces with toilet paper!  This past week, I became my Peruvian mother's daughter - her hija - she said.  Very close to my heart, my host mom is already.  Her eyes twinkle with happiness; she is full of warmth, love, and light.  She is a beautiful soul; my place of refuge in Peru.  My Peruvian mom is my place of security and serenity, she does not judge.  She is solely here to help and she loves to do so.  A fellow lover of plants and animals, I look forward to sharing more with her.  So far, I have given her all of the flower photos that I brought with me from home.  She kept saying, "Do you have doubles?"  I didn't, but I can always print more, and I was more than happy to give them to her.  Since the first day, she has reminded me of my great-grandmother Luella.  My Mom thinks that my host mom is a Peruvian version of my great-great-grandmother Henrietta; she really does look a lot like her, from her nose to her smile.  I am certain that my host mother was hand-picked for me by the stars & angels that watch over me.  She has touched my heart, and is there for me when I need her the most.  I truly am blessed.

I have experienced even more beauty outside of the comfort of my host family.  With the UNK group (there are 11 of us girls and our two guardians makes for 13), a professor, and a guide, we took a two hour hike to the waterfall of Matucana, Peru - Catarata de Antankallo.  I was yet again challenged, this time by my fear of heights, but it was well worth the stress.  I have many gorgeous photos and memories from our journey to the waterfall.  I consider myself very lucky to have had several animal encounters (mostly pups, but I am completely fine with this).  Much needed and has always been good for my soul to scratch a few ears and garner a good lick or two.  Urban birding is not as exciting as I had hoped it would be, but I have watched and heard the calls of Long-tailed Mocking Birds, Saffron Finches, masses of Black Vultures, and what the locals call "cuculis" - which is really a West Peruvian Dove, the more attractive version of a Mourning Dove.  They sound rather similar to the doves in the states and much like their name coo-coo-lee, coo-coo-lee (yes, I certainly do talk to them).  On my walk to school, I discovered a rather interesting looking spider, as well.  She is a Spiny Backed Orb Weaver and she is beautiful!  In all my life, I never thought I would be so intrigued by a spider.  But, here I am, checking on her each day on my walk to school!  Now.. for what you've all been waiting for (the pictures!)...  In sequential order, from the streets of Matucana, Peru to the Catarata de Antankallo &, my personal favorite, the orb weaver. :)   Enjoy!

At the end of the day or week, I can handle whatever is thrown at me.  There may be tears at times, but they must come.  I know that it is better to fully acknowledge and experience my emotions as they come, and I will continue to move forward in the process.  I really am one tough, frosted oatmeal raisin cookie!  One last thing; I want to share some words that are keeping me motivated.  I think they will benefit you, too, no matter where you are.  (Art from the streets of Matucana...)

Ten Important Traveling Companions to Take with You on the Journey to Your Dreams by Barbara Cage

1.  Confidence: for when things get tough, when you're overwhelmed, when you think of giving up.

2.  Patience: with your own trials and temptations, and with others.

3.  An adjustable attitude: one that doesn't react, but responds with well-though-out actions and feelings.

4.  Beauty: within yourself, in your surroundings, and nature. 

5.  Excitement: new things to enjoy and learn and experience. 

6.  Fun: laughter and smiles any way you can get them.

7.  Companionship: people to share your happiness and sorrows, your troubles and joys.

8.  Health: mental, physical, and emotional. 

9.  Peace: with others, yourself, and in your environment.

10.  Love: pure, unconditional, and eternal.

Have a happy weekend!  For now - Chow!  - A

La Primera Semana: A Week of Many Firsts

"Take time to do what makes your soul happy." - Unknown

Family & friends, I came across this quote while on the plane from Houston, TX in route to Lima, Peru... this is my first time out of the country and as the plane lifted air I couldn't help but ask myself, "What in the h*** are you doing, Ashley?!"  It really did not seem real.  As usual, my face could tell any passerby exactly how I was feeling; an overload of anxiousness was resting on my shoulders!

I am studying abroad in Lima, Peru for four months - that's what I'm doing!  I am being a rather brave chica, as my Aunt Jenny would say.  I will have a lot of time to myself - to do what makes my soul happy - with new scenery and experiences galore.  I am very excited for what is to come, and so far, it has been a week full of firsts for me in Lima.  I am fully immersed in the Spanish language, or as they prefer to say in South America, Castellano!  My friends and family are with me always, in my heart and in my head on this journey.

I had a boat load of anxiety the day before I arrived; I did not sleep a wink and my heart raced a million miles a minute for the entire duration of my flights.  When I finally put my feet on Peruvian soil, I was the last girl standing in the airport to find her family.  It was nearly 1:00 in the morning and I was sure that I was going to have to stay the night with my professors.  Think again!  I walked the aisles one more time to find a big, colorful sign with my name on it and was greeted with many hugs and kisses.  Xoxo!  Peruvians greet each other in this way: with a big smooch or beso on the cheek.  I wonder what my face looks like when they do it to me; this is one aspect that is going to take a minute for me to get used to.  Nonetheless, my Peruvian family is so kind.  I have a perfect fit, and for the first time in my life I have many brothers and sisters!  Two of them are very close in age to me, too.  Immediate friends.  I can get used to this!

Like a bird, I have flown south for winter.  Surrounded by beauty and warmth (it's summer & 80° here with 75-90% humidity, for those of you freezing in the states!), I am diving head first into this experience entirely.  My Peruvian mom walked me to school on Friday, but I was expected to find my way home.  I was initially afraid to walk the streets of Lima alone, but I navigated without a problem and have continued to explore the city every day.  I grabbed my own taxi that same evening and even bartered with the driver for a lower price.  Also firsts!

I have to say, the food here is amazing; I have yet to dislike anything I have been served thus far.  My Peruvian mom cooks rather simple, healthy meals that are full of fresh vegetables and fruits.  I humored my Peruvian mother in trying the first glass of fresh mango juice she made . . . but, it was not my last glass - I love it!  And to think I hated mangoes before!  Fresh mango, lemon, and pineapple juices are blended by her each day for the family.  She has a great appreciation for all flowers and plants, and that is a love that we definitely share.  She was also very excited to know that I grew up with a garden at home and at my grandparents' homes, and she loves to tell others of how much I like her food.  Like my papa says, all moms love good eaters!  This past weekend, my Peruvian mother and sister took me to a cevicheria: a restaurant that specializes in a very popular coastal dish in Peru.  Ceviche is made with raw fish and lemon/lime juices, and my first bite of this cured dish was surprisingly delicious!

In my first venture to the bar, I tried the Peruvian standard: a pisco sour (above)!  Pisco is a white brandy made from the grapes of Peru.  Yum!  My first try and definitely not my last!

Thus far, my favorite district of Lima and place to be is Barranco.  Lima has 43 districts, and I can be found in Surco!  The streets of Barranco are full of color and beautiful, interesting art.  I was captivated and I am eager to return to take more photos.  As you may have already guessed, my camera is around my neck nearly everywhere I go!  After a stroll to the coast with my Peruvian mother and sister, we stopped for a quick bite of helados - ice cream!  Thanks, mom.  :)  She snapped several photos of me on this day, as well.

Words that speak much to me in any language: think with the heart (top) & freedom (bottom).

In my first few days, I have seen and experienced much.  In strolling the streets of Miraflores a second time on Sunday evening, this time with my mother and sister, I was graced with what may have been the most beautiful view my eyes have come across thus far in my life: a magnificent sunset over the Pacific Ocean.  I fought tears - happy ones, of course - as I felt and continue to feel so blessed to be surrounded by this beauty and the kind, caring company of my host mother and sister.  It is almost overwhelming how welcomed I feel in my first week with this family.  They have often told me that I am a very good speaker, and this definitely encourages me to speak with them as much as I can.  I had decided to take a semester off from my Spanish studies before coming here and because of this I was very nervous that I wouldn't be able to keep up/express myself in front of my family.  This is not the case whatsoever!  My Peruvian mother has instilled much confidence in me, just as my own parents have always done.  I am learning a lot of new words from her and the family so far; continually surprised by how much I already know.  My host mother would tell you that I know everything, but I am fully aware that there is much room for improvement!  My first two days of school have been surprisingly short and interesting to say the least.  I am sure that I will do great.

In the first entry in my personal journal, I noted that I could only hope that Lima's sunsets were half as beautiful as those in Nebraska.  I knew that I would miss the abundant sky and the bright stars of home, and I surely do . . . 

But, for now, I can't complain.  :)
Yes, there are millions of people, beyond chaotic traffic, a plethora of constant noise, and much contamination/pollution . . . but, I am here to experience it all - the good and the bad - and I have made a promise to myself to never let any negative occurrences take away my happy over the course of my four month stay in Peru.  Se hace camino al andar . . . You have to keep walking to move forward!

We live in a beautiful world, and Lima is by far the most beautiful place I have ever been.

Welcome to my blog!  I hope that you enjoy the pieces I post of my journey in the future.  Chow!